Do Visit Co. Donegal: The Perfect Weekend Itinerary for Families

We love having visitors because we use it as an excuse to explore more of this beautiful country. This summer, some wonderful friends of ours brought their two little boys from the US to Ireland for a visit. This particular family is very special to us. When we lived in the US, even though we lived a few hours apart, we would spend weekends together about three times a year, weekends we always looked forward to, full of fun and lots of laughter. Moving abroad, we were sad knowing we might not get to have weekends with these friends for a long time. So when they asked about coming for a visit we very emphatically begged them to pull the trigger and book the flights. 

We planned an itinerary full of things that our family has done before and we knew would be great for an American family to see, including quite a few Irish playgrounds, because kids. However, we wanted to include at least a few new experiences for all of us. This meant a weekend getaway to Co. Donegal in the nothern part of the Republic of Ireland. A new county for us, our 17th out of 32 (if you include the counties in Northern Ireland). The Republic of Ireland has 26 counties. 

Co. Donegal is a more remote part of the country that doesn’t see a ton of foreign tourists, it’s a place where Irish people go on holidays. It’s not really near any airports which is why I think foreign tourists don’t often make it there, but let me tell you, it is an incredible place with some of the most amazing scenery Ireland has to offer. 

We rented a beautifully decorated 4 bedroom home that was formerly a Garda station in the village of Doocharry. It was a bit far from the sights we wanted to see, but we couldn’t pass up the chance to stay in such a gorgeous space. Think clawfoot soaker tub and rooms that could be in magazines at a bargain price point. The home sleeps 8 comfortably (there is one bathroom) and the total price for the whole weekend was 340 euros, 170 per family. The ower had a bottle wine for us and snacks and even a puppet toy for each child which was incredibly thoughtful. The village itself didn’t have much to offer besides a tiny shop and a pub. There was a food truck that appeared quite busy selling burgers and fries, but we brought our own food. 

On Saturday morning, we hopped in the cars and headed straight for Slieve League Cliffs. From Doocharry the drive was about an hour and a half. We arrived around 10:30am which seemed to be ahead of the crowds. Now when I saw crowds, this place doesn’t get even a quarter as crowded as the Cliffs of Moher, but it does get a bit busy. We parked in the first lot which requires about a 12-15 minute walk to the cliffs, you can drive closer if needed, but we’d definitely recommend the walk, it was stunning. Parking is free and there are clean public toilets at the car park. The walk is gorgeous, and we got lucky with a lovely sunny day for our visit. At the cliffs we took in the magnificent views, ate a lobster roll out of a food truck (random but tasty) and took a little walk. 

Once back at the cars we headed to our next stop which was The Silver Strand Beach in Malin Beg. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and we spent a few hours eating a picnic, playing in the water, building sandcastles and playing frisbee. It was a fab beach day, I think our favorite of the whole summer. There are about 100 stairs you need to walk down to access this beach, just so you know. There are toilets available in the car park and a food truck, but I’m pretty sure there was only ice pops, ice cream and cold and hot drinks for sale, no food. I can’t even quite describe how beautiful and enjoyable this beach was, it is definitely a place we would return to if we were in the area again.

Just driving back to the airbnb that evening was an experience. Everywhere you look is incredible scenery, it would actually kind of be a pain to be the driver as the roads are quite challening so you can’t enjoy the scenery! They might be called R (regional) roads, but they look and feel much more like L (link) roads where you have to pull to the left to let other cars pass and there my be grass growing right down the middle, or sheep crossing at a leisurely pace! We actually put our American friend behind the wheel of our automatic car, (our insurance company was happy to cover him during his stay in Ireland) sorry Aric! He did great and quickly adjusted to driving on the left after one near tip in Galway City that took about 10 years off my life.

Watch for sheep as you're driving in Donegal!

On our final day in Donegal we went to Glenveagh National Park. The day dawned cool, misty and foggy, but we were prepared with rain gear and wellies. We arrived around 10:30 again and headed straight to the playground. The kids needed to move bodies after the hour plus long car ride from the airbnb. The Parking here was free as well. There is a visitor center which has a restaurant and toilets, so the adults enjoyed a coffee. After the kids played a bit, we started walking towards the castle. We brought scooters for the kids and thought we were so smart, but it turns out that the path is gravel and they scooters were useless. Ha! The path is fine for buggies with good tires and for bicycles. Next time we might rent bicycles which were available in the car park, or we’ll bring our own. 

So the kids walked and the adults carried the scooters for 4km. We stopped for a snack break once or twice along the way. The scenery was really beautiful, the fog gave it kind of an eery qualtiy. When we arrived at the castle we opted to not go on the tour, it is guided and lasts for 45 minutes. We instead roamed the grounds of the castle for free and enjoyed the scenery and took a few photos. The kids loved this and ran around like the crazy little animals that they are. We took the shuttle back to the car park (a one way ride on the shuttle is €1.50/adult, kids were free). 

Co. Donegal is such a large county with so many family friendly sights to see, we honestly can’t wait to get back here to experience more of it. We’re active on instagram sharing posts and stories of all of our adventures, follow @transatlantic_leonards. I have a saved story highlight with more photos and videos from our time in Donegal, check it out!

A Summer Weekend in West Cork

The fourth of July obviously isn’t celebrated here in Ireland, but we didn’t want the occasion to pass without marking it in some way as it’s important to us. We hemmed and hawed over what to do, and ulitmately we decided it was the perfect excuse to explore a new-to-us area of the country. We kept hearing about West Cork being a really fun and family-friendly destination, so off we went for a 2 night adventure.  

We took off Friday evening around 6:30pm after having dinner at home. We got the kids all ready for bed and tucked them into their car seats in the hopes that they would sleep most of the way there. They slept much less on the drive than we would have liked, but they were good little travel companions. We listened to some children’s audio stories over bluetooth on the free app ‘TuneIn Radio’ and the 2.5 hour drive went by quickly. 

We chose to stay at a B&B, our first B&B experience ever, and it was absolutely delightful. It was called Ard na Greine Country House and it was located near the town of Clonakilty. Our family room had a double bed and two single beds, and we had our own bathroom. Our area, and the entire house, was sparkling clean, which is basically the only really important thing to us when it comes to accommodation. The incredible breakfast and the friendly staff were icing on the cake. I don’t know if this happens in every B&B, but we chose our breakfast from a menu upon arrival to the B&B, and selected what time we’d like it served to us in the dining room. The menu offered smoked salmon with scrambled egg, sausages, Clonakilty black pudding (a real specialty!), pancakes, eggs any style, toast, oatmeal; and you could order all of those things if you wanted! There were several varieties of cereal, fruits, juices and cheeses available as well. It was a huge spread and a great way to fill up first thing in the morning. Just a note, I am not a fan of oatmeal, but Norma, the owner, insisted we try it and it was absolutely out of this world. I don’t know how she makes it so smooth and creamy and delicious, but definintly try some if you stay here. The total for two night stay in a family room was €240, I do believe she gave us a slight discount for having young children. Book with her directly via email rather than on booking.com, you can find her email address on her website. We weren’t hosted, we paid for our stay ourselves, we were just really happy with the experience.

After breakfast On Saturday morning, we headed to the West Cork Model Railway Village. There they’ve created an exact replica of the town of Clonakilty in miniature form. The details are incredible and we all enjoyed walking around. The price for a family of four was €35 which included a ride through the town of Clonakilty on a train on wheels. Other ammenities included an outdoor playground, a soft play area, a cafe, gift shop and a small pond where you could put coins in and drive remote controlled boats. We arrived at opening, 10am, and pretty much had the place to ourselves which was great. It started to get busy as we were leaving around lunch time. We enjoyed our time here, but I wouldn’t really feel the need to go back. What I would do instead next time is wander through the town of Clonakilty, it is gorgeous and we didn’t make time to see enough of it. I’d have loved to go to a bakery or cafe for a nice cup of coffee.

We headed to Inchydoney Beach next for a picnic lunch and a swim in the ocean. This beach is incredibly beautiful and has the softest sand I think I’ve ever felt. At the time I said that this was my favorite beach in Ireland, but then we visited Malin Beg later in the summer in Donegal and Inchydoney became my second favorite (very close though!). I had packed food for a picnic lunch at the beach, and very kindly Norma was happy to refrigerate the food for us overnight. We enjoyed our lunch and then played in the sunshine for about 3.5 hours building sandcastles and wave jumping. It’s a beach we definitely plan to go back to sometime. There were public toilets available that were quite clean, they were just a little bit of a hike from the beach area (just fyi). 

After the beach we drove back to the B&B for a little downtime and to decide where we would go for dinner. Norma suggested Dunmore House Hotel and I have to say that the food and the views were absolutely fantastic! They host weddings here most weekends and we accidently gate crashed the drinks reception of a wedding. Oops. The staff were really friendly and brought us to a room where we could wait for the wedding guests to go to their dining room, then we were seated for dinner. We would definitely eat here again. Again, not hosted, we just loved the food.

We hadn’t stayed in a B&B before with the kids so we were flying blind at bedtime. We didn’t really want to go to bed with the kids at 8pm so we put them down like usual and then went and sat in the downstairs sitting room to relax. Norma offered to turn on the TV for us, but we just chilled with a craft beer that we had picked up from SuperValu and chatted about our plans for the next day. 

The following morning after another superb breakfast we packed up and drove towards Kinsale. The drive there was stunning and we stopped off at the Old Head of Kinsale, a beautiful scenic overlook. It was gorgeous, but there were no barriers so we kept tight grips on the preschoolers and we didn’t stay long. Just across the road was a museum commemorating the sinking of the Lusitania, a passenger ship that was torpedoed by a German submarine off the coast of Kinsale in 1915. We enjoyed learning about this, or Julian enjoyed learning about it by reading every.single.sign while I chased the kids around (insert eye roll). We all enjoyed the viewing tower very much, a staff member even loaned us a pair of binoculars to take to the top. Then, when we got back into the car, we made Julian give us a thorough history lesson so we all came away well informed. Total cost for this stop was €10.

After this we drove through Kinsale, but we didn’t stop. It’s a very cute little town, but, unpopular opinion time, I feel it lacks authentic Irish character. It reminded us a lot of the towns on Martha’s Vineyard with expensive and perfect looking shops and restaurants, which is cute, but not the best with kids in tow and quite touristy so we continued on. We headed towards Cross River Ferries to hop on the car ferry which takes you to Cobh. This was really fun and we’d definitely recommend it! It was a tiny ferry that you drive your car onto, and the operators pack you in nice and tight. The cost is €6 for this 5 minute journey. This was our very first car ferry ride as a family, and possibly our favorite part of the whole weekend! We let the kids sit in our laps in the front seats while the ferry took us across to land and they thought that was gas craic. (Look at me with my Irish lingo!) 

Cobh is a town we’d been dying to visit and were it not for the ferry which cut the journey almost in half, we wouldn’t have been able to go on this trip. Now don’t get me wrong Cobh is also touristy and has a few very ‘instagramable’ spots with colorful houses and a large cathedral as a backdrop which draw big crowds, but it truly felt more relaxed and real than Kinsale. I’d love to come back and spend the weekend in Cobh and maybe visit Courtmacsherry as well (a little Irish village nearby with only one road in and out!)

We had lunch in a tasty Italian restaurant called Grand Italia Pizzeria Cobh, we came at a very busy time and had to wait, but we all really enjoyed the food. After lunch we walked around the town a bit. The weather was wet and foggy, but we had rain jackets to keep us dry. Cobh is actually the last port of call for the Titanic before it sank in 1912 and they have a museum commemorating that, which we’d love to go to next time. So all in all on this trip we gained lots of knowledge about sinking vessels from the early 20th century.

We eventually got back into the car and planned to drive to Blarney Castle, I had purchased tickets on line in advance. However, google told us it was very busy that day, and with the weather not cooperating we decided we just didn’t want to go. The tickets are good until January 2020 so I think we’ll take a drive down before Christmas, visit some more towns in West Cork and visit Blarney Castle. Overall, this was a fantastic family-friendly getaway that we’ll always look back on with fond memories. 

Feel free to connect with us on instagram for more details about this trip or any that we’ve taken! Our instagram handle is @transatlantic_leonards and I also have a story highlight saved with more details and photos from the trip on my profile page. We’d love to hear about your favorite family-friendly activities to do in West Cork, Ireland!