A Family Friendly Weekend in the Wicklow Mountains

We came back from visitng family in MN in the middle of August and we said we would spend the weekends in September working on house projects and not travel. However, by the middle of the month I couldn’t sit still any longer and and jumped at the chance to stay in a littel chalet in the Wicklow mountains for 1 night the last weekend in September. 

The Wicklow Mountains are only about an hour drive from Dublin Airport, so they’re an easy (and magnificent) place to sightsee even if you’re only flying to Ireland for a short visit. We obviously drove from our house which took about 2 hours. Wicklow Mountians National Park is one of 6 national parks in Ireland and our 5th one to visit. The only one left for us is Ballycroy National Park and I’m already scheming about a weekend here in the near future. But I digress, the Wicklow Mountains are a beautiful area and we genuinely enjoyed exploring for 36 hours. 

Really just driving through the mountains is an enjoyable way to take in the scenery (for the passengers in the car, sorry Julian! #alwaysthedriver). Our first stop of the day was at Lough Tay or Guinness Lake. It’s stunning and it’s one of the most photographed areas in Wicklow. It’s referred to as Guinness Lake because it truly resembles a glass of the good stuff! Just so you’re in the know, the Guiness family, who own some of the land around the lake, actually import the white sand to give it that frothy appearance at the top. Even though it’s not naturally occuring, it’s still a beautiful sight to behold. We first stopped at a viewpoint at the top of the lake closest to the froth of the Guinness, if that makes sense. We feel that the best views however, are from the side of the lake and we stopped there the next day when we were passing by again. Also, it was much earlier in the day when we stopped the following day which was better for enjoying the scenery, having more space to explore and taking the odd photo or two. Earlier in the day = smaller crowds. 

It was time for a hearty lunch after the drive so we made a stop at Byrne and Woods in Roundwood. I’m picky about restaurants, if I’m going to spend money on food I want it to be good quality and filling and this meal was top notch. I absolutely hate it when the kids menu only offers frozen sh1t. Here the kids were offered homemade spaghetti (the sauce, not the pasta, I mean we’re not in Italy people) that was so tasty I would have happily eaten it as my own entree. I had fish and chips, Jules had fish pie and it was all really good. #notsponsoredjustgood

With our bellies full we headed to our next destination, Glendalough. Parking was a fiver in the hotel car park, but I think you can go into the hotel for food/beverages and you would get 5 euro off your order. First we explored the monastic site which was founded in the 6th century. It’s just mind blowing how old that is. Now, the structures that remain intact are mostly from the 10th-12th centuries, but my goodness that’s old. It’s no wonder this area is called Ireland’s Ancient East. 

We headed out on a trail towards Upper Lake. I had read that it was a 2.2km loop, but that’s not quite accurate, it’s definitely 3km. Our family members with the short little legs did great though and only whinged a titch at the end. The Upper Lake is really lovely and we enjoyed taking it all in. We always try to get the kids to meditate with us when we arrive at a scenic destination, but understandably they’d rather throw stones and splash in water.

We headed to our chalet after this. Now, in my country, I would call it a trailer, but chalet does sound much classier! It was actually perfect for us, clean, two bedrooms, and we could sign into our Netflix account to watch a show after the kids went to bed. We could cook a hot breakfast in the morning before venturing out on day 2 and it had quite a lovely view right next to farm land. It was a good find and we were cosy there, the cost was 150 for the night, but I believe in that part of the country and having 2 bedroms, it was a decent price. 

We drove past Lough Tay again on our way to Powerscourt Waterfalls and like I mentioned, we again stopped to admire the view briefly. Then we made a stop at the P.S. I Love You Bridge. Do you remember the book by Cecilia Ahearn that became a movie with Hilary Swank? There was a scene in the movie where Hilary was walking through the Wicklow Mountains, which is absurd because the roads are incredibly narrow and the drivers are incredibly speedy, and she and Gerard Butler cross a small bridge. We stopped at the bridge to capture a photo for fun and to have a giggle about the absurdity of how it was portrayed in the movie. There are cars and tour buses traveling at breakneck speeds across this bridge all day long, I hope nobody traveled to Ireland thinking they could actually take a scenic walk here! Anywho, it’s an adorable little bridge and I’m happy to have the photo below that was taken by our 4 year old Frank. 

Then onto Powerscourt Waterfall, which was particularly beautiful. Now, this spot is a bit dear, 16 euro for the four of us to enter, but if we were going to make an afternoon of it with a picnic I wouldn’t mind paying the entrance fee to go back again. We had only planned on staying for a couple hours and we didn’t think to pack a picnic (which is unlike us, we’re slipping!) There was a lot to do besides just enjoying the waterfall, including trails for hiking, playgrounds for the kids, and lots of green space. Definietly a perfect spot to spend with a half day as a family. 

The sun made an appearance in the afternoon, so rather than head straight for home after lunch, we veered off course a bit and headed to Killiney Strand (Beach). We threw rocks in the water, splashed a bit and ran around before our drive home. It was really lovely and warm and the perfect end to a really fun weekend getaway. The waves were quite strong so we weren’t sure if Killiney would be a place where you could swim in the summer time. I’ll have to do a little digging to find out about that. 

Do Visit Co. Donegal: The Perfect Weekend Itinerary for Families

We love having visitors because we use it as an excuse to explore more of this beautiful country. This summer, some wonderful friends of ours brought their two little boys from the US to Ireland for a visit. This particular family is very special to us. When we lived in the US, even though we lived a few hours apart, we would spend weekends together about three times a year, weekends we always looked forward to, full of fun and lots of laughter. Moving abroad, we were sad knowing we might not get to have weekends with these friends for a long time. So when they asked about coming for a visit we very emphatically begged them to pull the trigger and book the flights. 

We planned an itinerary full of things that our family has done before and we knew would be great for an American family to see, including quite a few Irish playgrounds, because kids. However, we wanted to include at least a few new experiences for all of us. This meant a weekend getaway to Co. Donegal in the nothern part of the Republic of Ireland. A new county for us, our 17th out of 32 (if you include the counties in Northern Ireland). The Republic of Ireland has 26 counties. 

Co. Donegal is a more remote part of the country that doesn’t see a ton of foreign tourists, it’s a place where Irish people go on holidays. It’s not really near any airports which is why I think foreign tourists don’t often make it there, but let me tell you, it is an incredible place with some of the most amazing scenery Ireland has to offer. 

We rented a beautifully decorated 4 bedroom home that was formerly a Garda station in the village of Doocharry. It was a bit far from the sights we wanted to see, but we couldn’t pass up the chance to stay in such a gorgeous space. Think clawfoot soaker tub and rooms that could be in magazines at a bargain price point. The home sleeps 8 comfortably (there is one bathroom) and the total price for the whole weekend was 340 euros, 170 per family. The ower had a bottle wine for us and snacks and even a puppet toy for each child which was incredibly thoughtful. The village itself didn’t have much to offer besides a tiny shop and a pub. There was a food truck that appeared quite busy selling burgers and fries, but we brought our own food. 

On Saturday morning, we hopped in the cars and headed straight for Slieve League Cliffs. From Doocharry the drive was about an hour and a half. We arrived around 10:30am which seemed to be ahead of the crowds. Now when I saw crowds, this place doesn’t get even a quarter as crowded as the Cliffs of Moher, but it does get a bit busy. We parked in the first lot which requires about a 12-15 minute walk to the cliffs, you can drive closer if needed, but we’d definitely recommend the walk, it was stunning. Parking is free and there are clean public toilets at the car park. The walk is gorgeous, and we got lucky with a lovely sunny day for our visit. At the cliffs we took in the magnificent views, ate a lobster roll out of a food truck (random but tasty) and took a little walk. 

Once back at the cars we headed to our next stop which was The Silver Strand Beach in Malin Beg. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and we spent a few hours eating a picnic, playing in the water, building sandcastles and playing frisbee. It was a fab beach day, I think our favorite of the whole summer. There are about 100 stairs you need to walk down to access this beach, just so you know. There are toilets available in the car park and a food truck, but I’m pretty sure there was only ice pops, ice cream and cold and hot drinks for sale, no food. I can’t even quite describe how beautiful and enjoyable this beach was, it is definitely a place we would return to if we were in the area again.

Just driving back to the airbnb that evening was an experience. Everywhere you look is incredible scenery, it would actually kind of be a pain to be the driver as the roads are quite challening so you can’t enjoy the scenery! They might be called R (regional) roads, but they look and feel much more like L (link) roads where you have to pull to the left to let other cars pass and there my be grass growing right down the middle, or sheep crossing at a leisurely pace! We actually put our American friend behind the wheel of our automatic car, (our insurance company was happy to cover him during his stay in Ireland) sorry Aric! He did great and quickly adjusted to driving on the left after one near tip in Galway City that took about 10 years off my life.

Watch for sheep as you're driving in Donegal!

On our final day in Donegal we went to Glenveagh National Park. The day dawned cool, misty and foggy, but we were prepared with rain gear and wellies. We arrived around 10:30 again and headed straight to the playground. The kids needed to move bodies after the hour plus long car ride from the airbnb. The Parking here was free as well. There is a visitor center which has a restaurant and toilets, so the adults enjoyed a coffee. After the kids played a bit, we started walking towards the castle. We brought scooters for the kids and thought we were so smart, but it turns out that the path is gravel and they scooters were useless. Ha! The path is fine for buggies with good tires and for bicycles. Next time we might rent bicycles which were available in the car park, or we’ll bring our own. 

So the kids walked and the adults carried the scooters for 4km. We stopped for a snack break once or twice along the way. The scenery was really beautiful, the fog gave it kind of an eery qualtiy. When we arrived at the castle we opted to not go on the tour, it is guided and lasts for 45 minutes. We instead roamed the grounds of the castle for free and enjoyed the scenery and took a few photos. The kids loved this and ran around like the crazy little animals that they are. We took the shuttle back to the car park (a one way ride on the shuttle is €1.50/adult, kids were free). 

Co. Donegal is such a large county with so many family friendly sights to see, we honestly can’t wait to get back here to experience more of it. We’re active on instagram sharing posts and stories of all of our adventures, follow @transatlantic_leonards. I have a saved story highlight with more photos and videos from our time in Donegal, check it out!